The Other Side of Coche: Coche-Dury Reds 2009 & 2010

Posted by Ian McFadden

The Other Side of Coche
2009 & 2010 Coche-Dury Reds:
Bourgogne, Monthelie Rouge
& Meursault Rouge

"Given their consistently superb quality, Coche-Dury red wines may well be the ultimate 'insider’s wines' in all of Burgundy." -John Gilman

Coche-Dury is world renowned for his epic White Burgundies. Today, we explore a different side of Coche - his stunning reds. We need to mention right from the start that these are very limited. In many cases, these are the only bottles in the country.

Like the whites, they are very concentrated, show great detail and a riveting clarity of expression.

Last winter, I drank a bottle of 1992 Coche-Dury Auxey-Duresses Rouge, an off-vintage that's not known for red and it was gorgeous and still full of life.

And the main reason they aren't better known is that, by any standards (even by Burgundy standards) the quantities made are absurdly small. For example, only 75 cases are made each vintage of his Meursault Rouge - the parcel is just .14ha. That's just about a third of an acre and the equivalent of a suburban lot, and a smaller one at that.

Still, one hears rumors of the wines now and again. Burgundy fanatics talk about sightings of Coche reds in Paris.

The Bourgogne Rouge transcends the category, which is obvious enough - and should probably be expected given the price. Still, it could put many 1er Crus to shame. In vintages like 2009 and 2010, it will see its tenth birthday without breaking a sweat. Like Coche's whites, even in a ripe vintage like 2009, there's a serious acid backbone to the wine. The vines are scattered around the village of Meursault and the signature is one of layered dark fruits, minerals and spice.

Coche's Meursault Rouges continue the dark fruit theme of the Bourgogne Rouge, but is more lifted aromatically with smoke, spice and violets. This is particularly true with the 2010. The 2009 Monthelie Rouge has its dark berry fruit complicated by a wash of leather and minerals. 2010 Monthelie is bright and nimble with beautiful aromatics of spice and flowers. Both the Meursault Rouge and the Monthelie possess long and elegant palates with really impressive energy on the back end.

These are monumental Burgundies that will age very well on their density and balance. For Coche fans, for Burgundy lovers, and for people who are just interested in masterfully crafted wines, these are worth a close look.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits

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