The Perfect Storm: 2021 Vetter Sylvaner "Muschelkalk"

Posted by Joe Salamone

To begin, perhaps ignore the grape "Sylvaner" and simply think of this wine as a looking glass into the limestone soil.

Truly, the wines closest to this particular Sylvaner in terms of style come from other brisk, limestone-riddled places. Think of the most incisive examples of Chablis. 

photo of bottle of Vetter Sylvaner GK Muschelkalk

Still, Vetter's wine delivers the crisp razor's edge that sets it apart. Even in warmer years, Vetter somehow distills sunshine into flowers, minerality, and structure.

People have taken notice. Eric Asimov, the wine writer for The New York Times, included a Vetter bottling on a list of his twelve "most memorable bottles of the year." The influential online drinks publication Punch has called Vetter "the savior of Sylvaner."

The rigorous 2021 vintage has perhaps helped bring Vetter's wines to the next level, using the vibrating energy of this vintage to shape wines of unparalleled vigor and extreme delineation.

This is the perfect storm; Vetter's 2021 Sylvaner "Muschelkalk" is a rapier made of limestone, dusted with sea salt and lime zest, with flowers pulverized into porcelain.

At as low as $37.95 a bottle on the four-pack purchase, going deep would not be a bad idea. The force and severity of this vintage ripple through these wines. Vetter's 2021ers have benefited from three years of bottle-aging in his cellar.

Vetter has unquestionably proven that Sylvaner can be a grape of extreme sensitivity and real nobility. The clarity and finesse that the grape can achieve do not come easily. Vetter farms just a few hectares of old-vine Sylvaner on very steep, terraced sites.

The results, especially in 2021, are singular and undeniable. Do not miss one of the last treasures to be released from this storied German vintage.

To order, email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits

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