The Triumph of Ulli Stein:
2023 Kabinetts

In a vintage where the wines can feel diffused or undefined, Stein's Kabinett collection is as vague as a chisel hammering into slate.

Both of Stein's single-vineyard, Grand Cru Kabinetts have arrived - one just off-dry, and one completely dry. They are, without question, vintage-denying masterpieces.

If this feels hyperbolic, especially for a vintage as complex as 2023, Stein himself has said he believes his absolute best Kabinetts might be 2019... and 2023.

The numbers tell a piece of the story. Both Kabinetts have well over 8 grams of acidity, which is a formidable number even in a cool vintage. Yet what is so fascinating is that Stein's 2023 Kabinetts also show deep, cool-toned fruit with notes of green apple, lime zest, sea salt, bitter herbs, and mint.

There is a ripeness here, yet it is featherweight and crystalline, these wines feel both ripe and austere. They have concentration yet they also flaunt that most important signature of the Kabinett: an ethereal lightness, a mouth-watering, electrical current.

At this point, Stein is a living legend loved by riesling fanatics. Ironically, Stein was largely ignored through decades of his career. The "famous" wines of Germany were high in ripeness and high in sugar; serious collectors collected Auslese, BA, TBA, and the like. In this world, Stein unapologetically made light, mineral-driven, dry, and just-off-dry wines. 

Things have changed. Stein wines are consistently among our most popular offers. Thankfully, while his prices have gone up, Ulli wants his wines to get into as many hands as possible and keeps his accessibly priced. The cost of making wines from terraced vineyards and old, ungrafted, and low-yielding vines is significant. We're really happy that Stein keeps them gently priced, so we can open them and enjoy them often. 

Both of these Kabinetts are simply dazzling. We strongly suggest that you take advantage of special mixed 6-pack pricing. 

To order, email offers@ctake rushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits