The Wilds of the Mosel - A Revelation:
2019 Stein Palmberg Spätlese Trocken

Posted by Joe Salamone

This is a profound bottling from a profound site - a very old, terraced vineyard.

Stein's 2019 Palmberg Spätlese Trocken is a revelation. Hailing from a vintage known as much for its importance as for its out-sized personality, Stein's Palmberg brokers much more on delicacy than power. Its magic lies in its restraint. 

The 2019 Palmberg Spätlese Trocken has the vibe of classic Mosel Rielsing. It reverberates with a crystalline energy.

The wine is animated by an expertly judged subtlety and precision. It thrives on a quiet, almost pensive, finesse. Stein’s 2019 Palmberg is beautifully stony on the palate with a fine, tense, linear structure. 

Spend even the briefest bit of time in the vertigo-inspiring and slate-riddled Palmberg-Terrassen with Ulli Stein and you immediately sense what a special place it is. This is an unknown vineyard, a forgotten curiosity even to most Mosel experts, yet the Stein family has spent the last 50+ years tending this vineyard, rebuilding its terraced walls, and caring for the vineyard's old ungrafted vines, some of which are over 100 years old.

This is Stein's top dry wine and it can be had for as low as $50. While the price is far from being "the hook", it's comforting to know that wines of this rigor, classicism, and quality can be still be found without spending a lot of money. At any price, wines as balanced, composed, and soulful as this are rare. 

To order, email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
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