Thriving on Subtlety and Finesse: 2007 Lilbert-Fils Cramant Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

Posted by Joe Salamone

Thriving on Subtlety and Finesse
2007 Lilbert-Fils Cramant
Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

Lilbert's Champagnes are exemplars of the riveting, sleek chalkiness of Côte des Blancs Champagnes.

With just 3.5ha, they are painfully rare.

Finding Lilbert takes some searching, but it's something that we're always happy to do. For us, these are some of the great expressions of the Côte des Blancs.

Lilbert Cellar

A month ago we offered Lilbert's Perle. Today, we focus on their top wine, the 2007 Cramant at $79.95 per bottle, a healthy 15% below the only other price in the U.S.

Lilbert's 2007 Cramant is one of the most impressive examples of the vintage that we've tasted. Peter Liem just comes out and says: "There are few 2007s that I’ve found as compelling as this one, and it will only improve with age."

Lilbert's tiny production partially explains why they aren't better known. There's simply not very much to go around. The quiet style also plays a role: Lilbert's are classic, subtle and graceful Champagnes. There's nothing showy or loud about them.

What they do uniquely well, though, is express the energy and the precisely detailed chalky minerality that makes Côte des Blancs some of the most captivating Chardonnays around. They are studies in elegance and clear, whispering nuance and complexity.

Their vintage Blanc de Blancs represents the pinnacle of the range. It's mainly sourced from Lilbert's oldest vines in Cramant. Cramant is considered to be one of the absolute best villages in Champagne. In the Côte des Blancs, the only competition is Mesnil.

The 2007 Cramant clearly displays what makes this village and Lilbert's special hand with it so impressive. It's deeply mineral, delivering an incredible amount of length and refinement.

As is always the case with Lilbert, the quantities are really limited. This modestly sized parcel will likely disappear quickly.

To order, reply to this email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits