Ulli Stein and the Art of the Kabinett (Feinherb and Trocken)

Forget everything you think you might know about vintage 2022, because old vines don't lie.

If an axiom of wine buying is to follow producers and not vintages, the corollary might be: follow the old vines and not vintages.

In vintage 2022 this is especially true, as the old vines weathered the dryness of June and July easily. They naturally limited their yields and produced grapes with a dense concentration.

With today's offer, both truths are fulfilled: winemaker and vine age. Stein's Himmelreich vineyard has vines up to and beyond 70 years old; the Palmberg has vines well over 100 years old... and you can taste this.

These are simply epic Kabinetts. They're ethereal, almost delicate, while maintaining serious rigor at the same time.  Stein is truly one of the remaining masters of the Kabinett. For the American audience what is perhaps curious is Stein's focus on dry and dry-tasting Kabinetts; he rarely makes "sweet" Kabinetts.

Even today's "Feinherb" Kabinett feels almost dry, as the citrus and stone fruit are washed off the palate by polished mineral and an electric and cooling energy.

The Palmberg Kabinett Trocken is a force to reckon with; for us, it is one of the most important bottlings of the Mosel. There are very, very few wines that contain so much force, in such a focused form.

Both of today's wines are buoyant, nearly levitating; this is the signature of this vintage. They are structured, compact wines that can only be made from old vines, only in the Mosel.

What we wrote years ago of our friend Ulli Stein remains true today: "We have not met another winemaker in the Mosel with Stein's knowledge, passion, boundless energy and devotion to the region's forgotten vineyards. Stein makes some of the most soulful and intricate Rieslings that we know of."

As such, Stein's Kabinetts are always among the most cherished bottles in the store - these are wines we all stock up on. These are wines we truly love.

To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits