Utterly Singular Brilliance
La Bota Manzanilla Pasada:
#59 and Bota Punta #60
These two Manzanilla Pasadas represent La Bota at its best.
Even beyond the confines of sherry, La Bota's limited releases represent some of the greatest wines on the planet. Identifying these as high points is to place them in a rarefied plane.
It's been some time since we've done a La Bota or sherry offer, but there was no question when it came to these just-released Manzanilla Pasadas.
They represent utterly singular and completely captivating expressions of sherry. Jesús Barquin, sherry scholar and one of La Bota's founders, was in the store a few years ago and said this about the solera that both originate from: "This is very special. I don't know of anything else like it in sherry country."
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What's amazing is that the solera had never been commercialized until La Bota unearthed it. For decades, the "Capataz" (the bodega foreman) kept it going by drawing small amounts of wine and refreshing it to keep the flor (yeasts) alive. He couldn't let Manzanilla of such incredible quality go.
During a visit, I tasted through nearly all of the 15 barrels that make up the solera and it was one of the most amazing tastings I've ever taken part in. Anyone who's tasted releases 10, 20, 30, 39, 40 or 50 know how profound the Manzanilla Pasadas are. The Manzanilla Pasada Bota Punta #50 made New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov's top wines of 2015 list along with things like 1978 Ridge Monte Bello and 1953 Lafarge Chênes.
The flavor spectrum and finesse that these bottles deliver is insane. Everything from a firm streak of saline minerality to warm citrus tones, floral notes and a nuttiness are subtly woven together. All of this is presented with intensity and dazzling elegance.
Manzanilla Pasadas exist in a liminal stage between energetic Manzanillas and deeper and darker Amontillados. What results is a thrilling saline cut with a mesmerizing depth of complexity. Just to put some numbers to all of this, whereas most Manzanillas are between three to four years old, these boast an average age of 15 years or more.
As incredible as #59 is, the Bota Punta has to be singled out for being extraordinary. The #59 is a carefully selected blend of the barrels in the solera. Out of this solera the "Bota Punta" (the barrel at the end row) is even more special. It starts by being identified as having a unique, more intense character than the rest of the barrels in the solera. Then, it's treated differently. When it comes to refreshing this barrel, wine is taken from the solera instead of the younger wine from the 1st criadera, which is the normal procedure. This builds an insane amount of concentration and complexity while simultaneously emphasizing the aristocratic finesse.
A few years ago. I was lucky enough to attend a tasting of all of the releases from this solera at that time (#s 10, 20, 30, 39 & 40) and my impressions of just how special it is only deepened. One of the things that the tasting drove home was just how well the wines aged: six years after release, the #10 was simply stunning. You'll definitely want to take advantage of the special 6-pack price and cellar a bottle or two of each.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits