Value in 09 Red Burgundy: Part II
2009 Bouchard Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes
Yes, Value is out there in 2009 Burgundy
"The estate decided to hold the line in 2009, so there are serious values to be had at Bouchard." - Crush Press, Volume 1
As you've no doubt read in the inaugural edition of the Crush Press, the big issue with 2009 Burgundy is not quality, it is value.
Right from the very beginning - and we're talking the early barrel samples in the summer of 2010 - this was a vintage that has wailed the most baroque of siren songs. Robert Bohr, one of this country's most thoughtful and considered Burgundy minds, said to us that he "just hadn't tasted anything like it."
Unless you are flat out against beauty or numb to things of sensuality, it's hard not to be more than a bit taken by the 2009 red Burgundies. They are luxurious and dense with a very noticeable elegance.
Unfortunately for us, these early reports also fueled a bit of a frenzy and pricing has gone up almost across the board... almost.
In our article "The Truth about 2009 Burgundy" in volume 1 of the Crush Press we asked Bohr, John Gilman, Michael Madrigale and Raj Vaidya where the value was to be found in the vintage - all of them said the same thing.
First, go to the top producers but buy further down the food chain. Second, look toward the bigger houses who produce more wine. They there will be less upward pricing pressure here - that good old supply and demand thing.
That is a long introduction, granted, but this wine deserves it. While Bouchard is technically a big negociant, their standards are absolutely in-line with that of a small, artisanal, completely tuned-in domaine. Quality just keeps increasing here, vintage after vintage, and overall it's now, without a doubt, at an all-time high under winemaker Philippe Prost and the Henriot investments.
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In 2009 they achieved some great, great things - finding structure, a sort of serene balance and calm power with very, very impressive intensity - all this in the face of an exuberant, gregarious and richly fruited vintage.
Volnay's 1er Cru Clos des Chenes is always considered one of the finest Crus in Volnay aligning the signature finesse of the commune to a pure mineral line, a sort of loveliness as well as intensity. And in 2009, it's all expertly incorporated within the vintage's ripe, luscious fruit.
Allen Meadows, the Burghound, notes the "seductive texture on the firm, dusty and beautifully detailed and intense finish that delivers impressive length." He finishes his tasting note by calling it a "classy effort that will require ample cellar time to reach its full maturity yet one that should be approachable in its youth."
This duality is one of the most perplexing things about 2009 Burgundy: the top wines are stacked and will certainly go the distance, but they are also striking to drink young.
Have no doubt, the 2009s will have one of the widest drinking windows of any vintage in the history of Burgundy. This alone almost makes them worth the price, as anyone who has opened an expensive Burgundy only to find it an ornery companion will tell you.
Today though, no need to break the bank. We have a small parcel available at only $48.77. Please give us your maximum order and we'll do our best.
To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits.
Burghound: "A pure and ripe nose of cherry and plum liqueur marries into rich, powerful and mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract which confers a seductive texture on the firm, dusty and beautifully detailed and intense finish that delivers impressive length. This is a classy effort that will require ample cellar time to reach its full maturity yet one that should be approachable in its youth."