"to make wines, not bubbles"
NV Vilmart et Cie Cuvée Rubis Rosé
Lowest Price in the Nation
"Vilmart & Cie. is not only one of the greatest grower-estates in Champagne, but one of the finest champagne producers of any type in the region." -Peter Liem, ChampageGuide
The above words, from the calm scholar Peter Liem, are almost shockingly grand. Yet Vilmart et Cie provokes strong emotions from a wide range of people, from the wine geeks to the blue chip collectors (and just about everyone in between).
The wines are that good. For today's rosé, let's mirror Liem's sentiment and say that not only is it one of the greatest grower-rosés, it's one of the finest rosés in the region. The 90% Pinot Noir offers a certain meatiness to the wine, with notes of sweet-tart wild berries, the slightest allusion to animal and earth, a polished, sprightly mineral/acidity.
The style at Vilmart et Cie is enigmatic, almost contradictory: rich wines of a certain austerity. Depth and creaminess somehow matched to clarity and filigree.
The easy comparison that comes up again and again is Krug - both houses employ barrel fermentations and the wines have a similar richness and smoky depth. Yet Vilmart et Cie often blocks the malolactic fermentations, creating what can by an icy, dagger-sharp acidity matched to the meaty mid-palate.
This for sure is at least part of the thrill for the wine geeks, the acid hounds - Andrew Jeffords calls the acidity "Saar-like." This gives the wines a soaring energy, this highlights the wines chalky minerality and lends them a singing lightness.
This rosé is wildly food-friendly (again, reference the acidity). Consider anything from a simple veggie-laden frittata or charcuterie board up to medium-weight entrees, a roasted chicken dusted with rosemary and thyme.
It's also ageworthy, certainly 5+ years is no problem at all - for that reason the 6er may be worth considering. If you plan on drinking sooner, decanting is a good idea, or at least serving the wine in a wide Burgundy bowl.
There is so much else to say about Vilmart - the Premier Cru sites in the Montagne de Reims, organic viniculture, a maniacal team of 30 people to harvest a mere 11 hectares, etc, etc. Space and time, however, prevent us from indulging in more details. Have no doubt Laurent Champs is very, very serious about winemaking. Thus his quote far above - making wine, not bubbles.
This estate has become a staple for us: We tend to grab as much Vilmart as we can when offers come up, especially when pricing is this good. But this is, in the end, a small house with a BIG following. The math in these sorts of scenarios is never terribly friendly. If you are interested, please let us know ASAP.
To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Vilmart NV Rubis arrives this fall
NET | No further discount