In a recent 2014 retrospective tasting, two Kabinetts were scored the highest: Vollenweider's Goldgrube Kabinett and Julian Haart's Schubertslay Kabinett.
That's a maybe not so subtle way to suggest that Daniel Vollenweider, one of the true masters of Mosel winemaking, shaped a brilliant collection in what was a complex vintage. (Alas they did not review Vollenweider's Spätlese.)
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It is always special to be able to source wines with a decade of age directly from the estate; the provenance here is perfect.
Frankly, it is humbling when the bottles come from the cellar of the late Daniel Vollenweider. These are nothing less than testaments to his life and his life's work.
Today, we have a small tranche of Vollenweider's 2014 Goldgrube Spätlese available at only $56.95. Please do not hesitate too long.
While the vintage was not easy, those who made strict selections crafted wines with incredibly intense aromatics, with textural palates that somehow remain quite light and airy.
This is not a low-acid vintage (quite the contrary), yet the best wines, like Vollenweider's, have a very stylish, very polished acidity that is unbelievably fine.
Daniel was a master of this style, and the 2014 Goldgrube Spätlese is both lavish and restrained, intense with perfumed aromatics, mouthwatering stone fruit, green herbs, and smoke.
Mosel Fine Wines, the reviewers who carried out the retrospective, write that "the 2014 wines are now almost all at full maturity." While this may be the case for some wines, Vollenweider's Spätlese is just entering its young maturity; this wine will develop easily in the cellar for another decade or longer.
But there is no denying this is a joy to drink right now.
With Thanksgiving around the corner, this would be something of a showstopper for any table. Yet, those who understand the rarity of this bottle and its significance for Mosel winemaking should grab a few extra for the cellar as well.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
