Wachau Rising - Jamek: 09 Riesling Klaus Smaragd & 12 Gruner Achleiten Federspiel

Posted by Joe Salamone

Wachau Rising
2009 Jamek Riesling Klaus Smaragd
2012 Jamek Grüner Veltliner
Achleiten Federspiel

Jamek is one of the historic estates of the Wachau; along with FX Pichler, Hirtzberger and Prager, they literally defined how we talk about the great wines of the Wachau.

In addition to shaping the language of the wines ("Smaragd" for the most powerful of the wines, "Federspiel" for the more delicate), the group known as the "Vinea Wachau" demanded the highest quality of the region.

And this group, in short, gave birth to the meteoric rise of Austrian wines that we've seen in the last three decades.

Jamek was, without a doubt, at the forefront of this renaissance. Their wines of the late 80s and 90s were among the greatest. This should not come as a surprise: Jamek has some of the most coveted vineyards in the Wachau, including the titans Klaus and Achleiten.

And if there was a period when Jamek slipped a bit, when the wines showed a bit less focus and precision than would be expected, they reclaimed their rightful place among the best of the best with the 2009 vintage.

Tasting is believing and the 2009 Jamek Riesling Klaus was little less than a revelation. Klaus, the vineyard, tends to produce richer, more oily and luxurious Rieslings; 2009 was a warmer vintage in Austria, producing some buxom wines. Yet, despite these facts, Jamek rendered a wine of cut and freshness - a bright palate awash with stone fruits, and with a beautiful, salty, slatey and savory display of fine minerals.

For as broad and intense as the wine is, it has remarkable energy, and a lift that places it more in the context of vintages like 2001 and 2007. Which is to say, very, very good.

Since spring has just arrived, we thought we might also put a certain focus on freshness. Grüner Veltliner, one of the most versatile white wine grapes in the world, produces a wine of incredible herbal nuance. In the hands of an estate like Jamek, the wine is sprightly and rainwater fresh with a piquant acidity that makes the wine incredibly lively and energized.

Few whites will be as refreshing as this bottle when spring turns into summer.

To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits