Weiser-Künstler and the Magic of Feinherb

At its best, Riesling Feinberg hits a magical poise that's breathtaking.

In the 2023 vintage, this may very well be the top example of feinherb. 

Weiser-Kunstler is one of the finest estates in the Mosel. There are just no compromises here. The wines capture what makes the Mosel so great with incredible precision. 

If every one of Wei-Kü's wines has a certain magic, perhaps it is the feinherb this year that has most captivated us, for its ever-so-playful, barely perceivable, graceful push just beyond the edge of dryness.

If the delicately off-dry category known as "feinherb" always walks a fine tightrope, Wei-Kü's Steffensberg "Löwenbaum" is masterful.  We have simply not tasted a Riesling from 2023 that dances around dry and off-dry so masterfully, with such ease and obvious joy.

With only 10.5 grams of residual sugar, this is barely even off-dry; the magic is so perfect as to be barely noticeable. At as low as $34.95, this is one of the vintage's most serious values.

Bottling this Grand Cru parcel - the Löwenbaum - separately is a rather new move from Weiser-Künstler. It has been one of the secrets of the estate for advanced Wei-Kü insiders.

The "Löwenbaum," or "lion's stomach," is a cherry parcel of the Steffensberg (it's even highlighted on the famous 1868 Clotten map) with old vines all trained on single poles. This was the tradition a century ago; today only the oldest vineyards keep the single-pole training, as it is the most time-consuming and expensive.

The wines from such single-pole training tend to have glorious acidities, the perfect foil for the razor's edge dance of the "feinherb." In 2023 the wine has such lightness and energy, a dazzling clarity that presents high-resolution citrus and stone fruit, an array of fine spices that play with ginger, spearmint, anise, and a prominent saline acidity. Absolutely mouth-watering right now, this wine has the density and grip to age effortlessly for a decade and more. 

If you want to order, however, please do not wait. Weiser-Künstler is a tiny, husband-and-wife estate of just over four hectares and they and their wines are beloved.

To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits