Wine of the Year #4: Bobby's Pick
2008 Domaine Dujac Morey-St-Denis
Showing Off All the Depths and Fascination of Burgundy
at the Lowest Price in the Nation
After tasting through the 08 lineup at Dujac, I whispered to Jeremy Seysses I felt this may well be the greatest range they've ever made - bottom to top, it's the strongest showing I can remember. He told me his father, Jacques, has likened the 2008s to his 1993s - which are now legendary.
On that trip I was completely shocked by how impressive the 08s were. Especially in light of the reputation of the 09s, this was something very special.
Fast forward to December. For my Wine of the Year, I wanted a wine with blatant breed that trumped its quality designation and showed off the depths and fascination of this place I care about deeply.
From there, naming the 08 Domaine Dujac Morey-St-Denis was easy. This is a simply gorgeous Burgundy that speaks to all the reasons I love these wines.
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This is signature Dujac, attacking all five senses with a grace and sensuality that even the other GREAT producers struggle to always achieve: ethereal, perfumed and intoxicating on the nose; from there, the deep, bold red color washes over the palate with pheremonic notes of animal and earth integrated into supple, vibrant berries and a 1,000-thread-count sheet of fruit woven with acid and tannin. The masculinity of the Morey commune, the wine's power and grip, completely belies its "village" status.
During my tastings in Burgundy this summer with Ian and our friends Robert Bohr, Rajat Parr, Daniel Johnnes, Raj Vaidya, Michael Madrigale, Richard Betts and Ned Benedict, the theme really seemed to be just how jaw-dropping the best 08s could be. And the lineup from Dujac (along with Mugnier, Vogüé, Ponsot, Rousseau and Roumier) stood out clearly, regally, confidently from the bunch as one of the most profound, bottom to top, of anywhere we tasted.
Every single wine in the range seemed to belong one cru level up from what it actually was: The villages drank undoubtedly like Premier Crus. The Premiers drank like sure-fire Grands. And the Grands may as well have been in their own Supermodel Grand Cru category.
It would have been one thing if the vintage was easy, wildly lauded with ripe fruit like the 09s. In 09, it was almost difficult NOT to make great wines. But 08 was tricky. Less adroit producers struggled; good producers pulled in ripe yet balanced fruit that rode along happily with the vintage's strength of acidity. And the best producers fully knocked 2008 out of the ballpark with wines that, I truly believe, will emerge in time as absolutely as collectible, ageworthy and impressive as the 09s.
This is the 20th anniversary of my collecting Dujac, and to me it seems evident that in 08, the domaine turned another proverbial corner with its winemaking. As I said before, Jeremy and Jacques liken the 2008s to their 1993s - which are now legendary. Knowing how seductive, blossoming - and still young - those are, I jumped at the opportunity to buy the rest of what I feel is Dujac’s best 08 under $100.
While this MSD is already beautiful and accessible due to its brightness, purity of fruit and impeccable integration and balance, I have no doubt this will be going strong for another decade plus. This is even more accessible due to today's soft price point, making it fully worthy of WOTY status - it will thrill collectors as well as offer an entry point to this world-class domaine for those who haven't yet had an opportunity to experience it.
Take note, though, that our demand for 08 Dujac has been unprecedented, and we suspect this will sell out quickly. To place your order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Robert Schagrin
Managing Partner
Crush Wine & Spirits
2008 Domaine Dujac Morey-St-Denis
Burghound: In contrast to the Chambolle, this is fresh and bright on the earthy and slightly animale red berry fruit aromas that introduce supple and relatively refined medium-bodied flavors that finish with good complexity and firm but integrated tannins. This often seems to lag a bit relative to the other two cuvées but not in 2008.
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