Dönnhoff nailed it in 2015.
The excitement over the 2015 vintage in Germany is huge. Simply put, the quality of the vintage is obvious.
Even in this context, Dönnhoff's wines stand out. The estate is one of Germany's enduring benchmarks. They've produced an impressive amount of absolutely stunning collections. Their 2015s are some of the best young wines that we've tasted from Dönnhoff.
Helmut Dönnhoff himself says that he's only seen fruit as beautiful as it was in 2015 one other time, 1971.
The two kabinetts on offer today highlight the explosive and ultra-clear fruit and minerality of the 2015 German vintage. In Dönnhoff's hands and in the Kabinett format, the vintage hits a brilliant equilibrium. They're glossy, nimbly elegant and have crackling acidity.
Krötenpfuhl is a fairly new vineyard for Dönnhoff (the first wine was released in 2006.) It's a site rich in gravel and quartzite. Krötenpfuhl's ability to deliver grapes of modest ripeness attracted Dönnhoff' to the site as a prime location for Kabinett.
Compared to the Leistenberg, Krötenpfuhl is richer and deeper showing more yellow fruits. The 2015 is a gorgeous example of Krötenpfuhl, perhaps the strongest that we've seen. It's expansive with floral notes, ripe citrus, stone fruits and a complex saline and smokey minerality. The vibrancy and punchiness make the 2015 particularly compelling.
Oberhauser Leistenberg is a site with sandy slate soils. Dönnhoff likes to make Kabinetts here because the vineyard produces fairly low must weights and the resulting wines are racy and elegant with a driving acid backbone. The 2015 shows a little more muscle than it typically does while delivering the sleek finesse and slate-y minerality that it's famous for.
These are two beautiful Kabinetts that drive home just how good Dönnhoff's 2015 are. For fans of Dönnhoff or for people who love the magic way that Kabinetts pull off intensity and weightlessness, these are not to be missed.
To order, please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Crush Wine & Spirits
2015 Dönnhoff Kabinetts