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212-980-9463
Lauer's absolutely fierce Auction Kabinett - always one of our favorites and very much an insider's wine - was one of the few to trade at a very reasonable price.
Make no mistake, these two bottlings are single-vineyard, Grand Cru dry Rieslings from Emrich-Schönleber.
They are something like the Grosses Gewächs at roughly half the price.
There's no way to adequately capture the importance of Ulli's wines. In a world where striving for greatness seems most important, these wines work on an entirely different and more humble wavelength. When Ulli hits the mark, there's something beautifully and quietly persuasive about the wines. The 2020 Palmberg Kabinett Trocken is an excellent example of this.
It's hard not to be in awe of Egon Müller. From his Scharzhofberg vineyard, Müller crafts the most consistently magical Rieslings on the planet.
They are a historic benchmark and loved by every Riesling fan that we've met. However, in recent vintages, the quality has really shown just what a world-class estate this is.
Along with bottlings like Keller's "von der Fels" or Lauer's "Senior," it's a wine with an undeniable Grand Cru pedigree. It is, by all standards, simply a declassified Grand Cru.
While Keller made the site famous in the U.S., Wittmann has to be considered the torchbearer of this fabled vineyard. In Germany he enjoys a huge reputation.
Since 1971, Hans-Josef Becker has been crafting incisive, dry Rieslings with an uncompromising, at times almost ruthless, presentation of citrus and mineral.
Ellergrub is Weiser-Künstler's top site.
This is simply a don't miss vintage for Schaefer. Even judged by their superlative track record over many decades, the 2019s are stunning.
Schaefer's 2018s are absolutely stunning. They leap out as among the best examples of the vintage. The Himmelreich GG has blazing minerality with a pristine expression.
A stunning, ancient amphitheater may be producing some of Germany’s most elegant reds. And no one knows anything about this place.
To state the obvious, the wines of Egon Müller are world-class.
In terms of combining intensity and weightless refinement, Müller is without peer.
Abtserde has the magical ability to take the power of Hubacker and the minerality of Morstein and Kirchspiel and roll them up into a wine of heartbreaking finesse and ungodly length.
It's not at all surprising that Abtserde is one of the hardest wines to track down.
We wanted to kick off our 2019 German offerings in a big way.
There's no expression of Riesling quite like Müller's Scharzhofberger. It offers intensity without weight; a steely nobility that's breathtaking.
We very purposely left out the mention of “Weissburgunder,” or Pinot Blanc, from the subject line.
For the simple reason that the grape variety here provides no context for what these wines are. We don’t believe there are any precedents for these wines.
Rosé is, in a way, one of the simplest wines of the vinous world. This is also what makes getting it perfect so hard. With rosé, the message has to be immediate, direct, dazzling, and refreshing. You should want the next glass before you’re even done with the one you have.
Wasenhaus is, at the moment, perhaps the most exciting young estate in Germany. It's somewhat extraordinary that Wasenhaus' reputation has grown so large and so quickly. The estate is tiny, little more than a minuscule collection of old-vine parcels farmed by two Germans who met working in Burgundy years ago.
This is one of the most elegant, silky, and tapered skin-contact wines we have ever tasted. In some ways, it is inexplicable, but in the warm vintage of 2018, Sven Enderle and Florian Moll crafted their most delicate, most transparent, and most elegant “Weiss & Grau.”
“Sourced from 70+-year-old, ungrafted vines in one of Florian’s coolest Grand Cru parcels, Lauer’s ‘Senior’ is simply one of the great dry Rieslings of Germany.” We wrote the above line in last year’s “Senior” offering, and we believe it now more than ever: This is, without question, one of the greatest values in white wine - Grand Cru in everything but price.
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