Fanfan Two Ways - Ganevat: 2010 Chardonnay Chamois du Paradis & 2011 Poulsard L'Enfant Terrible

Posted by Joe Salamone

The story here is pretty simple: an offer for a small parcel of Ganevat's 2010 Chardonnay Chamois du Paradis & 2011 Poulsard came across my desk and I jumped on it.

This offer is only going out to people who've supported Ganevat (known in France as Fanfan), so you're well aware of how rare Ganevat's wines are.

The two wines being offered today highlight just how elusive his wines have become: these are the only bottles of the Chamois du Paradis in the country; and there are only two other listings for the Poulsard L'Enfant Terrible.

Every Ganevat offer we've done in the past year has sold out quickly, so we'll keep this short and simple.

Ganevat's 2011 Poulsard L'Enfant Terrible clocks in at 11% alcohol, the color is just a shade darker than a rosé and yet, all of this belies the intensity of the wine. The wine has a taut and palate-saturating concentration. Yet, it's an invigorating wine - the intensity is presented in a seemingly weightless fashion. The aromatics are gentle and beguiling: tart berries, spice, orange rind, earth and flowers. Ganevat makes somewhere around 200 cases of his Poulsard each year.

The Chardonnay Chamois du Paradis comes from a red clay sub-parcel of the Grand Teppes vineyard. Compared to Grand Teppes, Chamois du Paradis is more compact and mineral. It offers up notes of herbs, smoky minerality and stone fruits. In 2010, Chamois du Paradis is particularly tension-filled and crystal clear.

Ganevat is one of the most dedicated and skilled winemakers working today. We've been working with him since we opened eight years ago. It's been great to watch his swift rise to cult status.

It's been disorienting for us as well. Suddenly, wines that we used to have free reign over are being allocated to us in painfully small quantities. These are wines that we love, but it's getting harder and harder to find the wines in enough quantity to offer out. This will likely be our last Ganevat offer for some time and we'll have to allocate.

Please give us your ideal order and we'll try our best.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone

Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits

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","inTOC":false,"regions":[{"label":"Title","type":"sl","tocTitle":false},{"label":"Description","type":"ml","tocTitle":false}]}]"> David Schildknecht: "Ganevat’s 2010 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay Les Chamois du Paradis issues from a warmer site than his En Billat and from a largely very tiny-berried selection, all of which makes for enhanced ripeness and richness, here of apple and white peach fruit allied to piquant peach kernel and toasted hickory as well as a smoky, peat-like pungency. This fans out into a finish of formidable persistence yet subtle intrigue. I imagine the results performing well for at least 3-4 years after bottling."