The young, undeniable master.
Last month, Julian Haart received the first-ever 100 points awarded to a Kabinett for his 2020 Ohligsberg Kabinett "Alte Reben."
Last year, at a charity auction, a rare magnum of his 2019 Goldtröpfchen Kabinett sold for well over $1,000.
Yet the truth is, even before these two dramatic moments, Julian was already considered one of the rare masters of the Kabinett genre. There are few people who have focused so sharply, few who have been willing to put in the enormous amount of work necessary to make this "simple" style of wine at the level he does.
The wine is a tribute to his grandfather, his father, and his son: Johann Josef. Thus the "J.J." Sourced completely from the Grand Cru Goldtröpfchen, this is in many ways a declassified Grand Cru; a wine that so obviously punches above its weight.
It's sourced from the younger vines (around 25 years old) and meant to flaunt the weightlessness, the extremely fine linear quality, the incisiveness, the joy, and effusive energy of what a Kabinett can be. If you love Kabinett, well, buy as much as you can.
When another vintage gives us wines of this quality, we may have another "Kabinett Week." However, with Julian's reputation finally breaking through into the mainstream and demand for his wines skyrocketing, it is unlikely we'll be able to feature him again.
To order, email email@example.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Crush Wine & Spirits