Few producers anywhere are able to deliver the purity and depth that Mascarello does.

Of course, most of the attention goes to their Barolo from Monprivato.

Today, we stay on the Monprivato hillside, but turn to Codamonte, an old vine Barbera bottling. Simply put, this is one of the most fascinating expressions of Barbera that we've tasted in many years. It is a stand alone example of the grape that greatly expands what you think Barbera is capable of.

Codamonte delivers an insane amount of layered complexity combined with a silky textural element that adds even more fascination. The old vines (many are approaching their 100th birthday) produce small, concentrated grapes that create an amazingly nuanced wine.

It's a tour de force of fruit, earth and florals. There's everything from smoke, herbs, saline minerality, red fruits, crushed flowers, tobacco and so much more. It's almost unbelievable that the 2012 can be so densely packed and yet maintain such a bouncy poise.

This gets to the magic of Mascarello's wines - they're jam-packed with nuance and built on grace. The 2012 Codamonte dramatizes this in an irresistible and moving way. As you can guess, the site's old vines don't produce very much wine. Typical production is around 80 cases per vintage. I strongly recommend that you check this out and don't wait too long before doing so. It won't stick around for long.

To order, email offers@crushwineco.com

or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden

Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits