Noteworthy Loire - Unmediated Purity
2018 Domaine de Montrieux: Gaga de Toi Gamay & Picrochole Pineau d'Aunis

Posted by Joe Salamone

Domaine de Montrieux are wines that I want to drink often.

I admire their simplicity, their purity, and how they present a combination of honesty with a dose of sophistication and polish. When it comes to the Pineau d'Aunis bottlings, I'm in awe of how masterfully the grape is handled.

Today, I'm happy to offer Montrieux's Gaga de Toi Gamay and Picrochole Pineau d'Aunis, two wines that offer a superb introduction to what's currently happening at the domaine. 

Montrieux was founded in 1999 by Émile Hérédia in the off-the-beaten-path appellation of Coteaux de Vendômois where the Pineau d'Aunis grape thrives. In this obscure region, Hérédia could easily purchase the area's top parcels and oldest vines. His wines were so singular and mysterious that they quickly gained a strong following.

In 2014, Ariane Lesné, a longtime fan of Montrieux, heard that the estate was up for sale and purchased it. We were supporters of Hérédia's wines, but since Lesné took over the domaine, the wines hit a new level. Lesné had worked in many facets of the wine world - she worked at Domaine de l’Arlot in Burgundy, in fine wine in London, and in a naturally oriented wine merchant in Paris. 

Montrieux's Gaga de Toi Gamay offers up a gorgeous and direct precision. It's pointed and energetic with very clear floral notes, dark fruits, and minerality. This is a snappy and really appealing expression of Gamay. 

The Picrochole Pineau d'Aunis is an incredibly refreshing and gulpable wine. It has the grape's signature pepperiness along with bright red fruits, plenty of floral perfume, and baking spices. I really like the wine's verve and its umami-like savoriness that leads to a building complexity. 

I took every bottle that I could, but it doesn't amount to that much. In the last vintage, our allocation sold out quickly, with many people making 6 or 12 bottle purchases. That gives you an idea of how compelling, delicious, and interesting the wines are. I created special mixed 6-pack pricing because you'll want to return to these multiple times. 

To order, email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits

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