Clos des Goisses is an absolutely unique experience of straining mineral power and aristocratic breeding.
The Clos des Goisses vineyard is without equal in Champagne. Clos des Goisses is one of the steepest vineyards in all of Champagne, consisting of 5.5 perfectly south-facing hectares of very hard, deep chalk in the Marne. The incline is so extreme that nets are put up to catch workers who lose their footing during harvest.
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It is easily among the longest lived, most complicated and most mind-bending mineral wines in all of Champagne.
Today, we present a Clos des Goisses that's entering its sweet spot. The 2000 Clos des Goisses shows this remarkable site in all its glory.
Clos des Goisses puts forth a wonderfully muscular incarnation of Champagne: savory, layered and endowed with a shivering acidity that belies its rich core. In the 2000 there is a creamy breadth and generosity, but also a vivacity and unwavering focus, "finishing"—as Liem puts it—"on a pinpoint, drenched in the chalky minerality characteristic of the Clos."
What's especially remarkable about this wine is its consistency, the way it manages to merit this high honor year after year, regardless of the quality of the vintage as a whole. Fair-weather Champagne fans look to blockbuster years like 1996 or 2002 (where prices are accordingly through the roof), but in vintages everyone else forgot about, Philipponnat turns out sneakily epic wines. 2000 is a really powerful example of this.
I've been a fan of the 2000 Clos des Goisses for many years. It's one of my favorite examples of the vintage and a great mid-term drinking Clos des Goisses. I'm always on the search for this wine. I was really happy to have landed this modest parcel. I'm sneaking this in on a Friday in June, because the quantities available don't allow for a more prime time slot. Please give us your ideal order and we'll do our best.
To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine and Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits