Rethinking Vin Jaune:
2008 Ganevat Chardonnay Cuvée du Pépé

Posted by Joe Salamone

Jean-François Ganevat produces an absolutely dizzying range of wines. With the freedom that such breadth affords him, brilliant and revelatory wines pop up.

Cuvée du Pépé is a prime example of this. It's Chardonnay given Vin Jaune treatment - aged for over seven years under flor.

The result is utterly fascinating and totally compelling. It's a wine with an explosive complexity.

Ganevat made gorgeous 2008s. Across the board, they have great energy and transparency with incredible concentration and harmony. I hadn't tasted a 2008 Ganevat in a few years, but when I tasted the Cuvée du Pepé it immediately reminded me just how successful he was in 2008.

The 2008 Cuvée du Pepé is powerful and gripping. For all of its saturating intensity, it maintains a vivid pinpoint focus. There's a mingling of citrus, mushrooms, spice, salty minerality, herbs, pine needles and much more. It constantly evolves with air, revealing nuance after nuance.

Ganevat's family has deep roots in the Jura - going back to 1650. However, for a good chunk of the nineties, Jean-François was in Burgundy. When he returned to his family's domaine in 1998, he was reluctant to make the oxidative sous voile wines that the region was best known for. For him, they lacked finesse. Soon enough, Ganevat began dabbling deeper with sous voile wines and his are easily some of the most elegant examples around. The Cuvée du Pepé, which ages Chardonnay under similar conditions as Savagnin would receive for Vin Jaune, highlights the level of curiosity and playfulness that Ganevat has brought to the process.

The result is not only eye-opening; it's really impressive in its own right. For Ganevat fans and Jura lovers in general, this is a worthwhile thing to check out. It's yet another example of Ganevat stretching the boundaries of what's possible in the Jura.

To order, email us at or call 212-980-9463.

Joe Salamone

Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits

2008 Ganevat Chardonnay Cuvée du Pépé