The Godfather of Dry
2018 J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Auslese Trocken

Posted by Joe Salamone

There simply are no other wines like a Becker Riesling.

Since 1971, Hans-Josef Becker has been crafting incisive, dry Rieslings with an uncompromising, at times almost ruthless, presentation of citrus and mineral.

Today we present a minuscule parcel, some 60 bottles, of perhaps Becker's deepest wine in this formidable vintage: his 2018 Auslese Trocken, his Grand Cru.

photo of Becker in front of iron gate

With a good decant the wine is explosive now, glazed and saturating, though the structure will see it develop gracefully for a decade or two, at least.

Not since the profound 2015 edition of this wine (which we offered out nearly two years ago) have we been as blown away by the marriage of power and depth, layers of mineral and marine notes and stone fruit and citrus, with clarity and structure.

This bottle is a legend-in-the-making. It is Becker's masterpiece of the vintage.

If Hans-Josef was all but ignored in the 1980s and 1990s, the fashionable producers in the Rheingau focused on soft, luxurious and sweet Rieslings. However, in the last decade, he has finally been recognized for what he is: one of the pioneers of mineral, structured, age-worthy dry Rieslings.

While he was an outsider for decades, Becker has now taken his more rightful position as a visionary. He pioneered natural fermentations in the Rheingau as well as organic viticulture (the estate has been certified organic for many years). Whether they know it or not, the newly fashionable estates are following his lead.

Prices for the top German estates have skyrocketed in recent years. For the moment, Becker's pricing remains attainable. As his wines gain wider recognition, as the history is told, this too will change.

To order, email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
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