Lafon's whites get so much attention, especially his rare Montrachet, that most people overlook his work in Volnay.
This is a shame. Along with d'Angerville and Lafarge, Lafon makes some of the top examples of the village.
Today, we're happy to celebrate Lafon's work in Volnay covering over two decades and focusing in on his two top Volnays.
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Clos des Chênes is a site made famous by Lafarge. It's a Volnay 1er Cru that delivers incredible refinement and complexity. Lafon's version is animated by a stony minerality with well-defined dark fruits and earthy notes. It's finesse and mineral drive really impress.
Lafon's Santenots is one of the great wines of Volnay. It is a masculine expression of Volnay. Santenots is a richer site with clay soils and hard rock underneath. For all this texture and richness, the magic here is the transparency: Lafon's Santenots always has a ridiculous clarity, as if both soil and stone were pulverized into the wine itself. My full initiation into the magic of Lafon's Santenots was a bottle of '78 a few years ago. It was a brilliant bottle.
Lafon's Volnays are only chased down by a few insiders, and while the fan club is small, it's also a fervent one. This means two things: first, in terms of Burgundy, the value is very good. It also means that the wines tend to disappear quickly when they surface.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes & Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu
2008 Volnay 1er Clos des Chenes
Special Bottle Price: $139.95
2002 Volnay 1er Clos des Chenes
Special Bottle Price: $169.95
2017 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu
Special Bottle Price: $144.95
2002 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu
Special Bottle Price: $199.95
1999 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu
Special Bottle Price: $249.95
1996 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu
Special Bottle Price: $199.95