The Perennial Overachiever: 2013 Lafarge Volnay

Posted by Ian McFadden

Few village Red Burgundies punch above their weight class the way that Lafarge's does.

And it does so with a particular soulfulness that I love.

This is one of the village Burgundies that I always stash away in the cellar. It ages beautifully. After five or so years, it develops an impressive level of earthy and mineral-inflected nuance that's really enjoyable.

While pricing on many of our favorite village Burgundies has gone vertical in recent years - hitting the $70-80 and even $100 mark - Lafarge's Volnay remains gently priced.

The 2013 is the brightest and most finely mineral example of the wine that we've seen in years. There's a delicacy and precision that amazes us.

Our fondness for Lafarge is well chronicled, but tasting his 2013s, we found it growing exponentially. The vintage was notoriously challenging for the Côtes de Beaune. From flowering to harvest, the region was beset with difficult growing conditions, culminating in a historical hail storm in July.

But this is where Lafarge's skill shines through. The 2013 boasts a brilliant clarity and pinpoint detail. Everything seems in place to age nicely on the short-to-midterm.

The 2013 Volnay is a beautiful expression of the vintage. It flaunts gorgeous, lacy red fruit and stony minerality. There’s an understated gracefulness and tensile elegance along with beautiful lift and energy.

I strongly advise you to stock up. This is a bottle that overdelivers in a big way. I do have to issue a warning: Volnay production was way down in 2013 and although Lafarge managed to turn out lovely wine in a tough vintage, there just isn't much of it. The parcel that I've managed to scrape together is a modest one and I'm expecting this to sell out quickly.

To order, please email us at or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden

Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits