The Razor’s Edge of Greatness:
2015 Stein Riesling St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Kabinett Trocken

Posted by Joe Salamone

Kabinett Trocken is unlike anything else.

When done well, this category of wine provides kaleidoscopic flavor in the most focused, most delicate of formats.

It's one of the most thrilling and particular expressions of white wine on planet earth.

For us, Stein is a master of the category. Few, if anyone else, make Kabinett Trockens as complete, as riveting or as simultaneously light on its feet and intense.

Ulli Stein

One of the Mosel’s greatest advocates for steep-slope viticulture, Stein oversees a few hectares of very old vines in the forgotten nooks and crannies of the Mosel.

And for the story of a great Kabinett Trocken, old vines are critical. Old vines are less efficient at transforming sunshine into sugar; thus you have fruit that is phenolically ripe, but isn’t necessarily high in sugar (the sugar becomes the alcohol after fermentation). Consider the fact that today we have a bone-dry wine at only 11% alcohol – in a vintage that, it should be noted, is already famous for its power and ripeness.

Stein’s Himmelreich vineyard flaunts 80-90 year old ungrafted vines, planted amidst a veritable sea of blue slate. It is a site that seems to us perfectly suited to produce a Kabinett Trocken – year in and year out this is one of the wines that we drink with abandon. It's a wine that offers endless fascination and joy.

The 2015 is a masterpiece: bright, detailed citrus and stone fruit, airy shavings of lime zest and slate all framed by a saline-tinged, whip-smart acidity.

The dog days of summer are around the corner. German wines remain some of the greatest values in the world of wine. This is one of the wines that drives this home. Stock up now.

To order, email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone

Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits

2015 Stein Riesling
St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Kabinett Trocken