Through the Cool-Climate Looking Glass:
2014 Vetter Sylvaner GK Sandstein & Muschelka

Posted by Joe Salamone

For fans of unapologetically mineral wines, of spring-garden florality and of mountain water salinity, we cannot recommend these wines enough.

The two Sylvaners on offer today are bone-dry wines, reverberating with tension.

This is only the second vintage of Vetter’s top, single-vineyard bottlings (the GKs) to make it to the states. If you have not tried these wines, it's time to take the plunge.

In this case the “GK” stands for the village and vineyard (Gambacher Kalbenstein) and does not denote “Gold Kapsule” or any level of sweetness. One bottle is from sandstone, one from limestone. Taste for yourself – there is no mistaking the two

The “Sandstein” (sandstone) GK is the more gregarious of the two, is a veritable explosion of citrus, flowers and fine minerality.

The “Muschelkalk” (limestone) GK speaks more directly to the force, depth and texture of Chablis. Of the two, it is the tenser wine – though both scream for a decant at this young age.

Stefan Vetter believes Sylvaner is a grape of extreme sensitivity and real nobility. Think of it as Chardonnay without so much fruit. Vetter also believes that the clarity and finesse that the grape can achieve does not come easily. Thus Stefan farms just a few hectares of old-vine Sylvaner on choice steep, terraced sites.

The results are singular and undeniable. While Franken is a famous region, steeped in history, it has too often not lived up to the promise of the vineyards. Commercial farming, high yields, quick fermentations and harsh filtering have stripped some of its greatest wines of their essential character. Stefan Vetter’s profound Sylvaners offer a glimpse into the promise of the region.

To order, reply to this email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone

Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits

2014 Vetter Sylvaner GK
Sandstein & Muschelkalk