Cristiano Garella's recent I'll Drink To That! interview is a treasure trove of insight into the Alto Piemonte.
This area North of Barolo has recently become one of the most exciting places to find exhilarating, tensile and perfumed wines - qualities that climate change has made increasingly elusive. And it turns out some amazing values.
Despite all of the interest, information about the various appellations can be painfully hard to come by. The Alto Piemonte is incredibly varied and it's not easy to get a firm grasp on the area's geological diversity. I strongly encourage you to check out the interview, because Garella drops some serious knowledge. I can't think of a better way to learn the difference between Lessona and Ghemme or the history of the area.
| IDTT: 381 - Cristiano GarellaListen in iTunes | |
 |
|
|
I'll Drink to That |
Cristiano Garella grew up in the Alto Piemonte and ran Sella, Lessona's historic producer. Today, in addition to his own project, Colombera & Garella, he consults for a number of the region's top producers. This has given him an understanding of the area that we haven't encountered elsewhere and one that very well might be unrivaled.
Colombera & Garella's first vintage was 2010. Giacomo Colombera is an old friend of Gerella's and through Giacomo's family they were able to work with some choice sites. Almost overnight, Colombera & Garella were catapulted into the realm of Alto Piemonte's top producers. These are really stunning wines.
We're happy to offer Colombera & Garella's 2012 Lessona at special pricing for I'll Drink to That! listeners.
Colombera & Garella make three different wines: a Lessona, a Bramaterra and a Coste della Sesia. Each is gorgeous, but we have a particular fondness for the elegance and high-toned profile of the Lessona.
During the interview Garella talks about how he likes to make wines fairly reductively. For him, working this way also preserves the purity of fruit and aromatics with vibrant precision. The bright red fruits and floral notes of the Lessona really highlight how skillful Colombera & Garella are in using this method and all the fine-ness that comes with it.
Compared to Bramaterra (and most wines of the Alto Piemonte), Lessona is more delicate, perfumed, and energetic. It's brimming with aromatics and what Garella calls "spicy acidity." The 2012 is a somewhat more extroverted example of Lessona, but also a beautiful one.
As Erin Scala makes clear in her warm up to the interview, in the 19th century Alto Piemonte was held in high regard (higher than Barolo.) In the 1940s, the vineyard land shrunk and never recovered. (Lessona was once 300ha, today it's less than 20ha.) Thankfully, the area is growing again. Colombera & Garella represents some of the most exciting wines of this Renaissance and Cristiano Garella is one of its most sensitive winemakers.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.comor call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits