Keller Goes Orange
2018 Keller Grauer Burgunder Trocken Reserve Alte Reben

Posted by Joe Salamone

Keller has taken the wine world by storm. His GGs have become impossible to find.

Today, we're happy to present part of Keller's line-up that works on an entirely different wavelength.

It's an orange wine made by Klaus Peter Keller's son Felix. It's an absolutely brilliant example of the genre, boasting the precision and tension that have made Keller's wines so renowned.

Felix Keller has been playing around with an old-vine parcel of Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) for many, many years, since he was a child. In 2018, the grapes were left on the skins for just over a week creating a hauntingly perfumed, pink-tinged white wine.

Germany, being so cool-climate, makes some of the most energized, nervy and transparent skin-contact whites in the world. The best of these wines offer the fascinating aromatic complexity of sea air, citrus skin, wildflowers, along with a really nuanced and wide mineral expression. They tend to be a bit richer on the palate and have a delicate tannic grip.

It probably comes as no surprise that Keller's 2018 Grauer Burgunder Reserve is one of the best skin contact wines we've tasted in a very long time.

The wine offers up an absolutely beguiling cast of aromatics - ranging from citrus to white flowers, to spice, and stone fruits. With air, the fireworks really start. The palate is really exciting. There's a raciness, saline minerality, and expertly judged grip. It also carries its own unique form of finesse.

For fans of Keller, orange wines, or German wines in all of their various manifestations, the Grauer Burgunder Reserve is something that you need to check out. It's incredibly compelling.

To order, email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone

Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits