Roberto Conterno is simply a force of nature and one of the most talented people working in wine today.
As the summer heat rages here, I'm happy to offer Conterno's incredibly refreshing and expertly crafted rosé.
For the past two summers, I've drunk Nervi-Conterno's Rosato in case quantities. I'm clearly not alone. Last year, it was one of our most popular rosés. It seemed that everyone who tried it came back for more.
It's not surprising. Roberto Conterno is an unrelenting perfectionist who makes world-class wines. When he applies this philosophy to rosé, good things happen.
I should mention from the outset that while Conterno's wines often sell for thousands of dollars, the rosato can be bought for $21.95 in 6-packs.
What I like most about Nervi-Conterno's Rosato is that it is not attempting to be a profound and long-aging rosé. Instead, it tries to take rosé's joyfulness to its pinnacle. Unsurprisingly, it succeeds amazingly well.
You definitely should not confuse chasing after deliciousness with a brisk simplicity. Instead, the rosato offers up plenty of fascination. You get a very nice tension between high-toned floral notes and juicy, bright red fruits along with mineral cut and a savory undercurrent of herbs. As you might guess, glasses disappear quickly.
Nebbiolo is one of the world's great grapes, and in the northern Piedmont where Nervi-Conterno's is located, Nebbiolo assumes a radiance and snap that lends itself wonderfully to rosés.
Conterno has been involved in the Nervi-Conterno estate since 2011, when Erling Astrup, a wine collector, and friend of his, purchased the winery and sought his counsel. In 2018, he bought the estate outright. I visited Nervi last fall, and it was clear the Conterno is bringing the rigor and perfectionism of his Barolo estate to Nervi. You sense this in the entire lineup, including the rosato.
I strongly suggest that you take advantage of the special 6-pack pricing. There's little doubt that this will become a habit-forming, go-to rose for the summer and beyond.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits