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It's one of the most unlikely entrants to cult status. The Xisto Cru Branco comes from Duoro (aka Port country), a region that no one would expect to find a white wine of such riveting minerality and tension.
D'Oliveiras has long been a standard-bearer, and they've supplied me with my greatest Madeira experiences. There is absolutely no doubt that this is the address for superlative old stocks.
The wines of Bairrada leave an unforgettable imprint on your memory. Along with Colares, the wines of Bairrada are the longest lived dry wines in all of Portugal. Whether red or white, it's common to see bottles still fresh and captivating at 30 years old.
It’s difficult to imagine tasting Luis Seabra’s 2016 Xisto Cru Branco and not undergoing a major reappraisal of all sorts of things. For starters, it’s hard to look at geography, of what fine wine is, and where it can be made the same way again.
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