One of Keller’s most intriguing flexes is to shape a dry Scheurebe that tastes more of the soil than of Scheurebe’s more flamboyant flavors.
The dry Scheurebe is one of Keller’s rarer wines. It’s not terribly expensive, and most often, when some of this wine makes it to the U.S., it flies under the radar except for the serious German-wine dorks. They seek it out with wild abandon because it does what nearly no other Scheurebe does: it flaunts the soil with a profound clarity.
Today we're excited to offer the 2022 Leipold Scheurebe Trocken “Alte Reben.” It is perhaps the only other dry Scheurebe with a similar crystalline and polished form as Keller's.
This is not all that surprising when you consider that young Peter Leipold worked with Keller for some years. In fact, he seems to have made a deep impression while working at the estate. Keller himself has written: “For me, Peter Leipold is on the way to becoming a young genius… Peter’s wines touch my heart.”
Leipold comes from Franconia and bottles select wines in the region's curiously shaped bottle called the Bocksbeutel. Only the wines of Franconia can come in this bottle; it is a valued piece of the region’s cultural history.
For us, it is hard to describe the wine's soaring, airy rush across the palate. It has a sleek, satiny minerality infused with salt and ocean breezes, a glacial freshness that is so incisive and weightless.
Then there's the angelic aroma. If Scheurebe is famous for its lychee notes, we have all this juicy, mouthwatering fruit along with complex and finely woven herbal and floral exoticisms: anise, lavender, verbena, and lilac. Yet all of this aromatic intensity is held in firm check by a dominating stony structure. It is a truly thrilling balance.
While the wine has all the stuffing to reward cellaring, perhaps the true thrill resides in this moment of youthful energy. Either way, good luck trying to make your 3-pack last through the summer.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
Special 3-pack pricing, automatically applies at checkout.