The Master shows them how once again!
2004 Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes

Posted by Ian McFadden

"The Master shows them how once again!" —Clive Coates

Clive Coates said it right. Some of you may be surprised that he's talking about the '04 Chênes. No one would say this was an easy vintage for Burgundy.

However, this is a vintage where Lafarge's skill separated him from the pack, especially with the Chênes. Regardless of the vintage, Lafarge always seems to deliver something truly noteworthy. No producer has surprised me with their consistency the way that Lafarge has.

This is an incredible value - well over 10% below the lowest price for any vintage of Chênes and over 25% below the only other listing for '04 Chênes in the U.S.

Over the years, Lafarge has become one of my favorite producers in Burgundy. While there are producers with holdings in Musigny or some other sexy Grand Cru who can turn out more objectively complex and grand wines, I still love Lafarge. There's soulfulness, a nuance-filled mysterious depth that, without fail, leaves a deep impression.

Lafarge's wines are known for gorgeous clarity of terroir. The Clos des Chênes, from 45-year-old vines in deep-red iron-rich soil, is no exception. For me, like so many others, Chênes is tops for Lafarge. There's a level of refinement that makes it stand out along with a delicately balanced long finish.

In his "don't miss" review of the 2004 Chênes, Burghound calls it "lovely stuff that will age well." With a touch over a decade on it already, the 2004 is just starting to sing. Like many of the top 2004s, Chênes has improved over the years in ways that even the most enthusiastic fan couldn't have predicted.

A couple of weeks ago we offered the 2004 Clos du Château des Ducs. It sold out in a flash. The value and the reputation of Lafarge's 2004s appear to have been an irresistible combination. We have even less of the Chênes. Please give us your ideal order and we'll do our best.

To order, please email us at or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden

Director, Fine & Rare Wine

Crush Wine & Spirits