Wine of the Year #2:
Ian's Pick - 2013 Nervi Gattinara Molsino

Posted by Ian McFadden

There’s no doubt that 2018 marks a turning point for the northern Piedmont.

The wines had been steadily assuming a place on the world stage, but Roberto Conterno’s purchase of the Nervi estate catapulted the region’s profile.

Conterno is arguably the greatest producer in Piedmont and people pay close attention to his moves. He is the first producer in Barolo or Barbaresco to look north.

As you would guess, Conterno chose wisely. Nervi is the historic producer of Gattinara with really impressive vineyard holdings, including Molsino. Conterno has been involved in the estate since 1991, when Erling Astrup, a wine collector and friend of his, purchased the winery and sought his counsel.

The 2013 Gattinara Molsino blew me away when I tasted it.

When I factored in the value and the potential for it to age beautifully, there was no doubt that the 2013 Molsino should be my wine of the year.

For Piedmont, 2013 is simply stunning. The wines have a radiant clarity and a punchy dynamic energy that’s thrilling. In Nervi’s 2013 Gattinara Molsino, you get a dazzling cast of aromatics and pristine, super-delineated complexity.

Unlike Barbaresco and Barolo, which are structured around their tannins, the wines of the northern Piedmont are animated by soaring acid backbones and mineral spines. They are thrilling.

Gattinara produces some of the most powerful, longest lived Nebbiolos. Bottles can easily see their 30th birthdays—do not underestimate the top bottlings of Gattinara. Nervi has been our most consistent source of old Gattinara. There are plenty of brilliant old bottles out there.

The 2013 Molsino offers spice, game, dried rose petals, cherry and perfumed raspberry fruits, tar, leather, tobacco and a fascinating thread of sun-scorched, rocky minerality that you get from Gattinara’s volcanic soils. It’s supremely elegant.

Moving forward, you can expect the pricing to jump substantially. The 2014 Molsino, which now has the Nervi-Conterno label, is priced at $124.95. This is a window of pricing that you should take advantage of.

To order, email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden

Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits