Wine of the Year Revisited: 2013 Nervi Gattinara Molsino

Posted by Ian McFadden

Just over six months ago, I announced the 2013 Nervi Gattinara Molsino as my wine of the year.

Looking back, the decision looks even better than it did originally. We've drunk a few bottles and they've been stunning.

The wines of Nervi, now called Nervi-Conterno, have blown up. There’s no doubt that 2018 marks a turning point for the northern Piedmont.

Roberto Conterno’s purchase of the Nervi estate in 2018 catapulted the estate and the region’s profile. The Molsino bottling now sells for $125 or more.

Conterno is arguably the greatest producer in Piedmont and people pay close attention to his moves. He is the first producer in Barolo or Barbaresco to look north. As you would guess, Conterno chose wisely. Nervi is the historic producer of Gattinara with really impressive vineyard holdings, including Molsino, some dating back to 1679.

Conterno has been involved in the estate since 2011, when Erling Astrup, a wine collector and friend of his, purchased the winery and sought his counsel.

The 2013 Gattinara Molsino blew me away when I tasted it.

For Piedmont, 2013 is simply stunning. The wines have a radiant clarity and a punchy dynamic energy that is thrilling. In Nervi’s 2013 Gattinara Molsino, you get a dazzling cast of aromatics and pristine, super-delineated complexity.

Unlike Barbaresco and Barolo, which are structured around their tannins, the wines of the northern Piedmont are animated by soaring acid backbones and mineral spines. They are thrilling.

Gattinara produces some of the most powerful, longest lived Nebbiolos. Bottles can easily see their 30th birthdays—do not underestimate the top bottlings of Gattinara. Nervi has been our most consistent source of old Gattinara. There are plenty of brilliant old bottles out there.

The 2013 Molsino offers spice, game, dried rose petals, cherry and perfumed raspberry fruits, tar, leather, tobacco and a fascinating thread of sun-scorched, rocky minerality that you get from Gattinara’s volcanic soils. It’s supremely elegant.

When I factored in the value and the potential for it to age beautifully, there was no doubt that the 2013 Molsino should be my wine of the year. In hindsight, I'm even happier with my pick. Don't miss.

To order, email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden

Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits