The Perennial Overachiever: 2013 Lafarge Volnay
Few village Red Burgundies punch above their weight class the way that Lafarge's does. And it does so with a particular soulfulness that I love.
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Few village Red Burgundies punch above their weight class the way that Lafarge's does. And it does so with a particular soulfulness that I love.
Every vintage, I search high and low for Mugneret-Gibourg. These days amassing enough for an offer seems like a full-time job. Today, to a very small group of Burgundy fanatics, I'm happy to offer Mugneret-Gibourg's 2013 Vosne and NSG Chaignots.
Clos de la Roche is far and away the flagship of Ponsot. It's his magnum opus. In any vintage, Ponsot's Clos de la Roche is one of the great wines of the world.
Along with Rousseau and DRC, Roumier forms the holy trinity of elite Red Burgundy producers. Today, we focus on Roumier's most under-the-radar site, Clos de la Bussière. For me, this stands out as the value of Roumier's line-up.
We're simply in love with 2013 White Burgundy. Today, we focus on two of the top values of the vintage. Seasoned Burgundy buyers have long sought out St. Aubin for the ridiculous quality-price-ratio it delivers. La Chatenière and En Remilly are two of St. Aubin's great sites.
"The Master shows them how once again!" —Clive Coates Clive Coates said it right. Some of you may be surprised that he's talking about the '04 Chênes. No one would say this was an easy vintage for Burgundy.
There are times when I can imagine drinking nothing besides Lafarge. That speaks volumes about their consistency, soulfulness and age-worthiness. Every vintage, Lafarge seems to find a way to shock and surprise. When you taste his '03s, this becomes clear. He produced incredibly and uniquely successful wines in this brutally hot and difficult vintage.
For many years, we've been fond of offering one of Burgundy's great secrets - Chezeaux's Griotte bottling made by Laurent Ponsot. Today, another great Chezeaux bottling made by Ponsot - the Chambolle Charmes.
Whenever I can get my hands on Chezeaux's Griotte (made by Laurent Ponsot), I get really excited. We're fond of introducing this wine as one of Burgundy's great secrets. There's pretty much no better way to sum it up.
A few weeks ago, I was absolutely shocked by a bottle of 2006 Dujac Luisants Blanc. It was one of the greatest '06 White Burgs that I've tasted. As usually happens, that bottle sent me on a tasting (and buying) frenzy. My biggest takeaway was that I'd neglected Dujac's whites for far too long. These should not be slept on.
These are the only bottles from these vintages available in the country. There's no better way to underscore how rare it is to be able to offer Lafarge with age than this. The quantities are very modest and this is only going out to a select group of Lafarge fans.
I've always loved Lafarge's wines, but over the past couple of years I've grown obsessed with them. When you drink old bottles of Lafarge, it really cements how profound, soulful and fine they are. They offer some of the most compelling and singular Burgundy experiences that I know.
I'm going to keep this short. This is an extremely rare wine from a great vintage. Lafarge has a mere 0.3ha in Caillerets, one of Volnay's top sites. Finding the wine in any quantity is next to impossible.
"The 2010 range at Domaine Lafarge is going to be a beautiful and utterly classic set of wines." -John Gilman Lafarge is one of our favorite producers; there is just something about the delineation, the fine-ness, the purity, the understated grace of these wines.
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