News — White Burgundy

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Puligny Benchmark: 2017 Carillon Puligny-Montrachet

Jacques Carillon produces some of our favorite expressions of white Burgundy. We have a particular soft spot for Carillon's Puligny Villages. Regardless of the vintage, the Puligny serves as a perfect summary of Carillon's style and seriously overachieves for the category.

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Under-The-Radar, For Now - 2017 White Burg Stunner:
2017 Génot-Boulanger Meursault 1er Cru Les Bouchères

Génot-Boulanger has become a pillar of the store. In 2017, they hit a new level that demanded an offering. When you factor in price and complexity, the Meursault 1er Cru Les Bouchères is the star of Génot-Boulanger's 2017 lineup. 

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Ramonet In Top Form - Revisited:
2017 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes

Ramonet's Ruchottes overachieves to such an extent that it can compete with many Grand Crus. In 2008, Allen Meadows tasted a 1978 that was in great shape. Ruchottes is dense and tactile with a sleek chiseled minerality and a soaring tension that is Ramonet's signature. It's a wine that is ruthlessly focused with a gripping concentration.

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White Burgundy - 1993-2017:
Coche-Dury, Dauvissat, Lafon, Raveneau, Roulot & Much More

Last week, I put together a long red Burgundy offering. Today, I put together a similarly sized list of white Burgundies.

I tried to highlight Burgundy's many top white producers ranging from Dauvissat and Raveneau to Coche, Lafon, and Roulot.

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"This is lovely and a classic example" - Revisited:
2017 Heitz-Lochardet Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières

It's been fun to watch Heitz-Lochardet start to really take off. It seems like everyone I give a bottle to comes back wanting a half-dozen more.

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2016 & 2017 Tribut Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy

I'll make this quick. Anytime that we offer Tribut, we brace ourselves for a quick sell out. Tribut's wines have long been aggressively hunted down by those in the know. If they haven't quite achieved the status that they deserve, it's because they tend to disappear from the market.

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Making Its Own Category - Lowest Price:
2015 Coche-Dury Bourgogne Aligoté

Coche-Dury exists on its own plane. It seems like Burgundy's hierarchies based on centuries of accumulated wisdom are suspended when it comes to Coche.

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"Snappy, delicious, complex and focused" - Lowest Price:
2017 Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon

Leflaive's 2017s are more than worthy successors to their amazing 2014s. For many years, Leflaive has resided at the very highest level of white Burgundy. Right there with Coche-Dury, Lafon, Roulot, and Ramonet.

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0.80ha: Go-To White Burgundy:
2017 Fornerol Côte de Nuits Villages Blanc

If you asked Crush's staff what their favorite affordable white Burgundy is, Fornerol's Côte de Nuits Villages Blanc would be mentioned again and again. It's rare for Burgundies to nail the combination of deliciousness, rigor, and affordability like Fornerol's Côte de Nuits Villages does. This is a wine that has it all.

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2014 Roulot - A Benchmark In A Great Vintage

In 2014, Roulot hit the bull's-eye. I'm very happy to offer a range of Roulot's 2014s. It probably goes without saying that everything on the list is very limited.

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Hubert et Olivier Lamy 2012-2017: From Bourgogne Blanc To Puligny

For many people today, Lamy is one of the most exciting producers of white Burgundy around. Lamy's wines are grandly sculpted with eye-opening rigor. Their track record for aging owes a lot to the density and firm, mineral backbone.

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Punching Above Its Weight Class:
2017 Ballot Millot Meursault Les Criots

If 2014 represented a breakthrough vintage for Ballot Millot, 2017 cements just how important this domaine is destined to become in Burgundy. For us, the outrageous quality of Ballot Millot's 2017 shines brightest at the lower end. Their Perrières and other Meursault 1er Crus are great, but at the villages level, the quality is shocking.

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"A gorgeous, beguiling wine... "
2017 Moreau-Naudet Chablis 1er Cru Forêts

Moreau-Naudet is producing some of the most exciting wines coming out of Chablis. In 2017, they reached a high-water mark. Their 2017s represent a break out vintage for one of Chablis' top talents. They nailed the vintage. 

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White & Red Burgundy: Coche-Dury, Colin-Morey, Lafarge,
Leflaive, Roulot, Roumier & More

With La Paulée officially a day away and festivities well underway, it's difficult for me to focus on anything except Burgundy.

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Don't Miss - White Burgundy Value:
2015 Lamy St. Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard

For savvy Burgundy buyers, Saint-Aubin has long been one of Burgundy's hidden values. Today's offer drives that point home.

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Hierarchies Crumble: 2017 Coche-Dury Bourgogne Blanc

There's nothing like the wines of Coche-Dury. They exist on a plane of their own. Coche's wines work on a very elite level, and you don't need to look far up the hierarchy to witness undeniable proof of this.

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Here Today, Gone Tomorrow:
2017 Pierre Boisson Bourgogne Blanc

This is an email that I write with trepidation. In a strong vintage, Boisson's Bourgogne Blanc is a guaranteed sell-out.

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"Nicely balanced" - 2017 Pillot Saint-Aubin Charmois Magnums

Thierry Pillot’s wines possess unmatched purity and crystalline character that sets them apart. Pillot's 2017 flaunts not only the wines' impeccable precision but also the strength of the vintage.

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Back-Vintage Meursault Perrières - Revisited:
1991 Ampeau Meursault 1er Cru Perrières

Among Burgundy producers, Ampeau is a welcome outlier. Instead of releasing the most current vintage, his releases follow a different logic. They're released only when they're ready to drink.

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"Offers very fine quality for its level"
- 2017 Tribut Chablis

I'm going to make this very quick. Anytime that we offer Tribut we have to allocate the wines. Tribut made gorgeous 2017s. They have the richness and presence of the vintage with an intense salty, Chablisienne minerality coursing through it.

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Don't Miss White Burgundy
2017 Heitz-Lochardet Meursault "Les Gruyaches"

With each vintage, Heitz-Lochardet seems to go from strength to strength. The 2017s are jaw-dropping.

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Utterly Brilliant White Burgundy:
2016 Boisson-Vadot Bourgogne Blanc

The Boisson family makes dynamite white Burgundies. With each passing year, I expect my obsession with the wines to fade. Instead, the opposite happens: I grow more impressed with the wine's clarity, finesse, and unforgettable impact.

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Bobby's Wine of the Year
2017 Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot Cuvée Clement et Emma

It’s been a while since I've participated in Crush’s Wine of the Year program. I needed an extraordinary bottle to get me off the sidelines.

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Lowest Price - Ramonet In Top Form:
2017 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes

Ramonet's Ruchottes overachieves to such an extent that it can compete with many Grand Crus. In 2008, Allen Meadows tasted a 1978 that was in top form.

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