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I've become obsessed with 2017 white Burgundies, and I'm happy to offer an especially dazzling example of the vintage.
If you had to neatly explain why Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is included among Burgundy's absolute greats, purity and rigor would work perfectly.
Rapet makes my style of Burgundy. They are stony and unadorned wines, direct and full of charm.
Ramonet is one of the time-tested greats of white Burgundy. Catch a Ramonet in top form, which is usually the case, and you'll find a case study in tension and intensity.
Jacques Carillon produces some of our favorite expressions of white Burgundy. We have a particular soft spot for Carillon's Puligny Villages. Regardless of the vintage, the Puligny serves as a perfect summary of Carillon's style and seriously overachieves for the category.
Génot-Boulanger has become a pillar of the store. In 2017, they hit a new level that demanded an offering. When you factor in price and complexity, the Meursault 1er Cru Les Bouchères is the star of Génot-Boulanger's 2017 lineup.
Ramonet's Ruchottes overachieves to such an extent that it can compete with many Grand Crus. In 2008, Allen Meadows tasted a 1978 that was in great shape. Ruchottes is dense and tactile with a sleek chiseled minerality and a soaring tension that is Ramonet's signature. It's a wine that is ruthlessly focused with a gripping concentration.
Last week, I put together a long red Burgundy offering. Today, I put together a similarly sized list of white Burgundies.
It's been fun to watch Heitz-Lochardet start to really take off. It seems like everyone I give a bottle to comes back wanting a half-dozen more.
I'll make this quick. Anytime that we offer Tribut, we brace ourselves for a quick sell out. Tribut's wines have long been aggressively hunted down by those in the know. If they haven't quite achieved the status that they deserve, it's because they tend to disappear from the market.
Coche-Dury exists on its own plane. It seems like Burgundy's hierarchies based on centuries of accumulated wisdom are suspended when it comes to Coche.
Leflaive's 2017s are more than worthy successors to their amazing 2014s. For many years, Leflaive has resided at the very highest level of white Burgundy. Right there with Coche-Dury, Lafon, Roulot, and Ramonet.
If you asked Crush's staff what their favorite affordable white Burgundy is, Fornerol's Côte de Nuits Villages Blanc would be mentioned again and again. It's rare for Burgundies to nail the combination of deliciousness, rigor, and affordability like Fornerol's Côte de Nuits Villages does. This is a wine that has it all.
In 2014, Roulot hit the bull's-eye. I'm very happy to offer a range of Roulot's 2014s. It probably goes without saying that everything on the list is very limited.
For many people today, Lamy is one of the most exciting producers of white Burgundy around. Lamy's wines are grandly sculpted with eye-opening rigor. Their track record for aging owes a lot to the density and firm, mineral backbone.
If 2014 represented a breakthrough vintage for Ballot Millot, 2017 cements just how important this domaine is destined to become in Burgundy. For us, the outrageous quality of Ballot Millot's 2017 shines brightest at the lower end. Their Perrières and other Meursault 1er Crus are great, but at the villages level, the quality is shocking.
Moreau-Naudet is producing some of the most exciting wines coming out of Chablis. In 2017, they reached a high-water mark. Their 2017s represent a break out vintage for one of Chablis' top talents. They nailed the vintage.
With La Paulée officially a day away and festivities well underway, it's difficult for me to focus on anything except Burgundy.
For savvy Burgundy buyers, Saint-Aubin has long been one of Burgundy's hidden values. Today's offer drives that point home.
There's nothing like the wines of Coche-Dury. They exist on a plane of their own. Coche's wines work on a very elite level, and you don't need to look far up the hierarchy to witness undeniable proof of this.
This is an email that I write with trepidation. In a strong vintage, Boisson's Bourgogne Blanc is a guaranteed sell-out.
Thierry Pillot’s wines possess unmatched purity and crystalline character that sets them apart. Pillot's 2017 flaunts not only the wines' impeccable precision but also the strength of the vintage.
Among Burgundy producers, Ampeau is a welcome outlier. Instead of releasing the most current vintage, his releases follow a different logic. They're released only when they're ready to drink.
I'm going to make this very quick. Anytime that we offer Tribut we have to allocate the wines. Tribut made gorgeous 2017s. They have the richness and presence of the vintage with an intense salty, Chablisienne minerality coursing through it.
With each vintage, Heitz-Lochardet seems to go from strength to strength. The 2017s are jaw-dropping.
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