Rare Ledru: 2013 Ledru Cuvee du Goulte
Simply put, Ledru's Champagnes are so riveting that it's difficult not to become infatuated with them. Cuvée du Goulté is Ledru's top wine and in 2013, it is dynamite.
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(164 posts)"The only problem with these wines is finding them"
- Lilbert-Fils Le Brut Perle Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
For many years, Lilbert's Perle has stood as one of our absolute favorite expressions of the Côte des Blancs. It's a wine that we immediately became obsessed with. The combination of old-vines, vinous depth and riveting sleek minerality is captivating.
Last Chance, Reference Point Vintage:
2008 Agrapart L'Avizoise Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru
Few producers in Champagne capture terroir with the level of mastery that Agrapart does. There's no vintage that proves this point as dramatically as 2008.
"Takes over all the senses and never lets up" - 2008 Roederer Cristal
I'm happy to join the chorus and say that the 2008 Cristal is the most impressive young vintage of the wine I've ever tasted.
Implausible Harmony:
Selosse Cuvee Initial Blanc de Blancs NV
This is the bottle of Selosse that I reach for most often. Initial highlights the magic of Selosse - it's a Blanc de Blancs of seemingly implausible harmony, combining outrageous purity with enveloping power. Its energy and punchy minerality are endlessly appealing.
The Greatest $35 Grower Champagne?
Back Up The Truck Holiday Edition
- Bazin Champagne Blanc de Blancs l'Unanime NV
This Champagne is beyond compelling, the price is beyond belief. The fact that the bottle can come to market as low as $35 is simply absurd. It is a serious, small-grower Champagne, easily holding its own with many bubbles at $50 and above.
Showstopping Meunier
2013 Laherte Frères Les Vignes d'Autrefois Extra Brut
At a recent tasting of over thirty wines, Laherte's 2013 Autrefois stole the show. It was sort of amazing. Among Cru Barolos and 1er Cru Burgundies, it was a Pinot Meunier Champagne that costs $59.95 in 4-packs that the entire staff was talking about.
Yin and Yang Peters Style:
Pierre Peters Réserve Oubliée
Finding Pierre Peters' Oubliée in quantity can seem impossible. Pierre Peters is one of my favorite producers in all of Champagne. Since the first release of Oubliée, I've devoted a lot of effort to tracking down bottles.
"It’s rare to find a champagne, or indeed, a wine of any kind, as profound" - Selosse Sous le Mont NV
All summer we've been working through Selosse's lieux-dits. Today, we turn to what is likely the most personality-filled one among a cast of utterly singular Champagnes.
Last Chance at a Legend - Sharp Pricing:
2002 Dom Pérignon
2002 is simply an epic DP. It will go down as one of the most iconic wines that we've seen from them in our time. Over the past few months, I've had multiple opportunities to taste the 2002. And it's blown me away. It's rare for a wine that I've always thought was special to continue to gain stature in my mind.
"It’s rare to find a champagne, or indeed, a wine of any kind, as profound" -Peter Liem
Selosse Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger Les Carelles Grand Cru Extra Brut
Mesnil produces absolutely magical Chardonnay and Selosse's Carelles takes it to a singular and utterly compelling level. The wine has an astonishing resonance and finesse. Carelles works on an epic scale with an incredible nuance and refinement.
"One of the finest grower-producers" -
Ledru Extra Brut NV
Ledru's Extra Brut is one of our favorite of Ledru's bottlings and exemplifies the best that non-dosage Champagne has to offer.
Clos des Goisses Sweet Spot: 2008 Philipponnat Les Cintres
The Clos des Goisses vineyard is without equal in Champagne. Les Cintres is from a prime, steep parcel in the middle of Goisses. I've devoted an incredible amount of time to hunting this wine down, and I'm excited to offer it. The inaugural release was 2006 and 2008 is the second release.
Without Peer
Selosse Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos NV
Selosse is revered for his singular, often mind-blowing Champagnes. His lieux-dits are nothing short of magical. They take the ridiculous resonance, the breadth of complexity and the finesse that are Selosse's calling cards to the extreme.
"One of the finest grower-producers" - Marie-Noëlle Ledru Brut Grand Cru
Every year around this time, we get a Ledru allocation, get excited to offer it out, and then it's gone. Each year the situation gets uglier and uglier as the quantities steadily decrease. The size of Ledru's estate has shrunk, her fan base has exploded and demand has been further fueled by her impending retirement.
Implausible Harmony: Selosse Cuvée Initial NV
This is the bottle of Selosse that I reach for most often.
"The 2013 Extra Brut Efflorescence is fabulous"
- 2013 Marie-Courtin Efflorescence Extra Brut
Marie-Courtin is based in the Aube, which is pretty much the backwoods of Champagne. Despite this, Marie-Courtin is mentioned with the region's top growers. Amazingly, she has very swiftly reached this level of recognition. Marie-Courtin's Dominique Morneau bottled her first wine in '06. By the time her 2008's were released, the Champagnes already had a cult following.
Champagne Rarity:
Chartogne-Taillet Couarres Château Extra-Brut (2012)
Chartogne-Taillet is making some of the most exciting wines in Champagne.
Pinot Esoterica - Red, Still Champagne
2014 Pascal Côteau Champenois Rouge Confiance
In a given year, Franck Pascal produces around 1,000 bottles of his Côteau Champenois. The availability of the 2014 underscores how rarely seen this bottle is. It can only be found at three other places in the U.S.
"A jewel of a wine" Revisited - 2012 Pierre Peters l'Esprit
When I had a second opportunity to buy Pierre Peters' 2012 l'Esprit, I didn't hesitate. Pierre Peters has a fairly large and strong lineup, but recently l'Esprit has emerged as one of our favorites.
"Don't miss it!" - 2008 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses
Clos des Goisses is an extremely steep and extremely chalky vineyard. Many consider it to be Champagne's greatest site. It's no surprise that Clos des Goisses 2008 is one of the stars of the stunning vintage.
Utterly Magical: Selosse Brut Rosé
Out of Selosse's line-up, his rosé is one of the hardest to find in quantity. It's rare that we're able to offer it, and when we do it's always to a very small group of Selosse buyers. I'm very happy to offer it today at very sharp pricing.
Weightless Intensity: Benoit Lahaye Naturessence NV
Benoît Lahaye is one of the most talented growers working in Champagne. Across the board his Champagnes have an extraordinary combination of intensity, finesse and agility. There's no better evidence of how conscientious he is about farming and how sensitive his winemaking is than this.
The Cult of Prévost: Prévost Beguines Extra Brut NV (2015)
Prévost's wines are extraordinary. If you've tasted Prévost, chances are that this sounds banal. Still, by any measure, the cult that's formed around Prévost is an unlikely story by any standards besides the advantage of the 20/20 vision of retrospect.