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Mas Jullien's 2021 Blanc is show-stoppingly beautiful. It's driven, long, elegant, and supremely clear. It's impossible not to imagine the 2021 aging amazingly well.
A few years ago, a friend poured me a glass of Arnaud Tessier's Meursault AC, and I was immediately intrigued.
I've been buying the domaine's wines ever since.
Today, I'm happy to present a stunning example of their work, the 2022 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes Dessus.
Finding Testut's Grenouille presents a challenge.
Their holdings in this tiny 10ha Grand Cru are a mere 0.32ha.
From their tiny parcel, they produce what is very easily my favorite example of Grenouilles (Testut uses the Grenouille spelling).
This is a vintage of the wine that I absolutely love. The 2013 Barolo is a wine of devastating purity, beautiful precision, and finesse.
For the past decade, things have clicked into high gear at Bachelet-Monnot. Each vintage the wines seem to go from strength to strength.
D'Angerville's 2020s blew me away when I tasted them in 2022. They are wines of incredible freshness, depth, and class. In short, it's the total package.
While there's no way around the fact that Lafon's wines can hit high price points, it's not true that encountering Lafon's mastery comes at a cost. Today, we drive this point home in a big way.
What's even more amazing is that these qualities carry across her entire range. It's a real testament to her winemaking that even at the Bourgogne level, the wines are so finely rendered.
To start with, Domaine des Cavarodes is situated just north of Arbois. Etienne Thiebaud's Domaine des Cavarodes produces some of Jura's hardest-to-find bottles.
Few producers capture the imagination like Jouan. The wines are some of the most mysterious, beautiful, and subtle Burgundies I know.
It's hard to think of another rosé that pulls off structure and interest with joyful drinkability so well. It offers depth and power alongside a dazzling, bright backbone. The classic profile is on bold display - flowers, herbs, citrus, spice, and a subtle, scorched earth minerality.
The 2021 boasts a fascinating spectrum of citrus and orchard fruit, quince, smoke, honey, minerals, and flowers. While there’s great density and depth, it’s balanced by superb verve and refinement.
Vollenweider's Goldgrube is sourced from old, ungrafted vines and the wine has a startling purity, a cool and incisive cut of mint and lime, a supreme detail of dried herbs, and a truly electric core of citrus oils. There is a profound clarity to the flavor and extraordinary length.
In terms of longevity, Cappellano's Barolos boast structures that can keep stride with the great distance runners of Piedmont, like Conterno's Monfortino and Giacosa's Red Labels.
Fructus Voluptas has Jamet's signature finesse but achieves this with darker fruits and more overt florality. There is a serious undercurrent of crushed rock, smoke, and herbal notes. The 2022 is especially concentrated with a vibrant core of savory minerality and energy.
The 2022 Spätburgunder flaunts the finesse and pristine signature that Wasenhaus is famous for. It's really impressive how much radiance and detail they can tease out.
We've been working with the wines for eighteen years. They've always turned out Sangiovese exactly how we like it. The wines are structured, nuanced, and offer a beautiful combination of lift and depth.
Romain Bessin is making some of our favorite Chablis.
The list below represents Burgundy's top talent and some of my favorites from our inventory.
The winemaking and farming at Domaine Baudry is some of the most conscientious that we know of. Across the range, the wines dramatize their careful approach. They are so clear and precise.
Allemand crafts Cornas like no one else. There's a poise and detail to the wines that makes them utterly singular.
The depth and textual fascination of Closiers' wines make it clear that the combination of terroir and talent is paying off.
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